Manufacturer: Husky Machine designation: H300 RS 65/55 Date of manufacture: 10/2007.Anchor Danly is a leading international manufacturer and distributor of high quality die sets, components, steel plates, and metal fabrications used in the production of tools, dies, and molds for metal working and plastics injection molding, machine bases, mining and construction equipment, and general fabrications. Our mission is to be a world-class supplier of choice to the tool, die, mold, and metal-working industries, enabling our customers to compete globally.Plastic & Metal Machinery. Nationwide will buy, sell, and liquidate used machinery as well as selling new equipment.
Manufacturer: Engel 80 Ton Engel Vertical Rubber Injection Molding Machine, Model Elast280/90VTL,2006 Min Mold Height(include Heating).260mm 11kw Pump Motor 3x460x60 69 Amp Comes With Light Curtain, and Temperature Control Unit 7354.Injection moulding machines Krauss Maffei 150-520 C1 (injection moulding machine 150 ton) Injection molding machine Krauss Maffei 2700-17100MC Injection.Anchor Danly will provide innovative value added products and services to allow our customers to effectively compete in the global marketplace.Our investment in people, R & D, engineering, state-of-the-art computer controlled manufacturing equipment, high quality materials and world class manufacturing methods, equip us to provide our customers with high quality value added products and services on time and at competitive prices.Our technical resources and manufacturing capabilities allow us to custom build products to your specifications. We manufacture from the smallest to the largest die sets and machined steel plates in the industry. Our expertise and experience in manufacturing die sets, steel fabrications and steel plates, ensure stringent quality standards and controls for our customers.We are committed to helping our customers get a competitive edge by building long-term relationships and partnerships. Injection moulding machine Husky 300 to We have a 300 ton Husky injection moulding machine with screw breakage with damaged injection plunger mount.
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A free program that lights children’s creative fires and allows them to explore projects in areas such as arts & crafts, science & engineering, design, and technology. Find enriching and interactive events, classes, workshops, and more. Maker Campus is a place to connect, learn, and make together. Maker-written books designed to inform and delight! Topics such as microcontrollers including Arduino and Raspberry Pi, Drones and 3D Printing, and more. A smart collection of books, magazines, electronics kits, robots, microcontrollers, tools, supplies, and more curated by us, the people behind Make: and the Maker Faire. A celebration of the Maker Movement, a family-friendly showcase of invention and creativity that gathers together tech enthusiasts, crafters, educators across the globe.
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I had a lot of the metal already, left over from other projects. It depends a lot on where the metal is purchased. David Gingery could be considered a forerunner of the Maker Movement — he and his son Vincent have written a whole series of books on building tools for the machine shop.This project should cost between $100 and $200. Gingery’s book Secrets of Building a Plastic Injection Molding Machine. It’s a great way to make many copies of a part quickly, and what I like best is that it’s easy to reuse old plastic objects to make new ones.So I built an injection molder based on the plans in Vincent R.
You can get by with a drill press and various hand tools. I made full use of my machine shop: mill drill, lathe, stick welder, horizontal band saw, ½” reamer, and various taps. They’ll often let you pick through their cut-off pile and sell it for almost scrap prices.I wouldn’t recommend this project for someone who has no metalworking experience.
So I decided to weld most of the frame and avoid drilling so many bolt holes.The injection lever (D) pivots on a½”-diameter steel rod (E). The wider block allowed me to add a second cartridge heater (B), so my machine warms up quicker and can get hotter.The frame (C) in the Gingery design is mostly angle and flat iron held together with bolts and nuts, but two connections needed to be welded. I used a leftover piece of 1″×2″ hot rolled steel instead. The plans call for a 1″×1½”×4″ piece of cold rolled steel for the heater block (A), where the plastic is heated before being injected into the mold.
It was too soft — it allowed the heater block and guide block to move out of alignment, preventing the piston from operating smoothly.)The major deviation from the plans is the temperature control. The plans call for washers, but I tried using some leftover fiber ceramic insulation sheet instead. The heater block and guide block need to be spaced out from the frame a bit, to isolate the hot heater from the frame and put the parts into proper alignment with the piston. They’re at least as strong as ungraded 1/4-20 bolts and should conduct a little less heat from the heater block to the frame.(One modification I tried didn’t work out so well. The bushings also keep the lever centered over the injection piston (G).My favorite fastener for projects is Allen head cap screws so I used #10-24 cap screws instead of 1/4-20 bolts to mount the heater block and guide block to the frame.
It is really nice to be able to set the desired temperature on the controller, turn on the heaters and watch the temperature rapidly climb to the setting.Using the machine is easy. A thermocouple sensor (I) comes with the controller it screws into a tapped hole in the heater block near the nozzle (J). I mounted mine in a separate enclosure and added a solid-state relay to handle the high-power heaters. These controllers use PID (proportional-integral-derivative) feedback control and can bring the temperature up to the exact setting quickly without any overshoot. Going with something more modern is well worth the effort.I used an inexpensive digital temperature controller (H) from Auber Instruments ( auberins.com).
Wear leather gloves when working with the machine. (If the mold in put in place while the plastic is being loaded some of the plastic will dribble out of the nozzle and clog the sprue of the mold.)Then pull the lever and inject! Here’s the pellet mold and some successfully injected pellets. After the cylinder is filled with sufficient molten plastic, the mold is placed under the nozzle and raised into place. These pellets are then used to feed the machine when making real parts.To try it out I cut some ⅜”-wide strips of polyethylene from an old plastic tote lid, set the controller to 380☏ and fed the plastic strips into the cylinder.
I started out by drawing a sketch for the mold in my project notebook. Plastic can build up and make it sticky.Now I’m making test-tube caps for my science experiments. I put a little oil on the piston where it goes through the guide block. If you apply too much pressure, plastic will squirt out of the mold and you’ll have a lot of “flash” on your part. Stop when you first feel additional resistance. It’s easy to apply too much pressure when injecting the plastic.
A more flexible plastic was needed. The caps turned out nice, but they were a bit stiff and difficult to put on. Finally a sprue hole is drilled and countersunk.I tried out the cap mold with some of the tote lid plastic I used for the test pellets.
That would open all sorts of possibilities.Learn more: Secrets of Building a Plastic Injection Molding Machine by Vincent R. The caps made with the LDPE work just fine.For now, I’m limited to simple molds I can make with a lathe or mill, but I’m adding CNC capability to my lathe, and thinking about a CNC router.
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